Tuesday, July 5, 2016

June 8, 2016 – A Cellar of Old and New

Hi, everybody, and welcome again to Cépage et Cuisine, Mary’s und Brian’s blog about wine, food, culture, people, and places.  I haven’t made much of an effort to learn German while I’ve been here, but today is our last day, so guten tag!  Really, I have nothing at all against the language, but learning to get around with a little travel French language was enough of a challenge on one trip.

The adventure is winding down.  Our only appointment for the day was a visit to Weingut S.A. Prüm late in the afternoon, so we organized our things to pack up and just goofed off around Bernkastel.
Here and above are photos of the main marktplatz (I did learn a word or two).  The architecture is gorgeous and the surrounding steep vineyards give the place a breathtaking, almost fairy tale appearance.  I will say, though, that Bernkastel is pretty thoroughly commercialized with all the typical souvenir shops, gelato, etc.  It is a universal tourist language, I guess.  A more authentic experience of the Mosel is found in the nearby smaller villages and towns, which is where we spent most of our time.

A close look at the people in these pictures provides an interesting cultural observation.  Most of the people walking around are our age or retirement age … alt fahrts, you might say.  Look at the group of young folks sitting on the bench in front of the shop in the center of the photo, obviously bored.  There were about a dozen of them.  I said to Mary they must be on some sort of organized school trip, but I don’t think teenagers find old churches, historical buildings, and vineyards very interesting.  To be fair, we have seen many cyclists and hikers who are fit and robust, but the average age of tourists here is definitely older than what we see in Burgundy and elsewhere in France.
There is a wurst steh on a side street, a sausage stand, what Americans would call a hot dog stand.  I asked Frau Mary if that would be ok for lunch and the reply was something along the lines of, “yeah, yeah, yeah!”  It’s a walk-up and walk-away establishment, enough room for four of five to stand at the narrow counter, no tables.

The selections are sausages of various types along with sauces and fries, served on a paper plate.  Takes about 10 minutes … shut up and eat, delicious.



The buns are not really what we think of as a hot dog bun.  They’re more like a Kaiser roll.

Someone suggested we should visit the Riesling Haus in Bernkastel, which is indeed a serious wine shop and tasting bar.  It is not jammed with tourists and we enjoyed browsing.  The entire inventory is Riesling from the Mosel and other German regions … amazing.  I’ve never seen such a selection of extremely high quality, premium, well-known Riesling.  Considering the prices are so low in Germany, I was hoping to bring home a case on the plane as luggage, but we couldn’t find an appropriate shipping box.
We visited a wine bar across the river called the Brückenkeller, which translates to “bridge cellar” because it is located under the bridge.
The weather was a little drizzly and when another couple departed, we grabbed their table under the umbrella.  The sign for apfelstrudel was a siren song for Mary.
On our last day in Germany, she didn’t pass it up.  Here it is in all its glory with the vanilla sauce and whipped cream.

The final tasting appointment of our trip was at Weingut S.A. Prüm in Wehlen, another of the descendants of the Prüm family I described in the previous blog post.  The Prüm family history in vineyards and wine production dates back almost 900 years.  Sebastian Alois Prüm inherited one-seventh of the family business in 1911 and founded the S.A. Prüm estate.

Like many of the producers we have visited, S.A. Prüm produces a variety of wines from many vineyard sites in trocken, feinherb or halbtrocken, and sweet styles.  Our host, Lisa, tasted us through a dozen or more wines, beginning with their rosé of Pinot Noir, which their list of wines describes as der perfekte Sommerwein … no translation needed!

Here’s a photo of one of their wines, the Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2010.  To quickly deconstruct the label, the village is Bernkastel, the vineyard is the Lay vineyard, the grape is Riesling, the ripeness level is kabinett, and the vintage year is 2010.  Gutsabfüllung means estate bottled.

Like the wines of Weins-Prüm, whom we visited yesterday and are practically next door, the wines of S.A. Prüm show a similar definition of detail and balance, the vineyards and vintages displaying subtle and sometimes not-so-subtle differences.  Many of the same vineyards are sourced by both producers, so similarities are definitely present, but slight differences in expression can also be appreciated.

The cellar at S.A. Prüm combines old and new.  They still use these large old oak casks for a short duration in the time between fermentation and bottling.  A quick interesting side note is that when the casks are not in use for wine production, they are kept filled with water in order to keep the staves expanded properly.
Here is the new.  These are large temperature-controlled stainless steel fermentation tanks.
Something I found interesting is they have these very small stainless steel tanks of varying sizes so they can separate fermenting juice from small, defined parcels of vineyard in order to understand differences within vineyard sites.


Look at this magnum of wine next to a standard bottle of Riesling.  Beautiful, isn’t it?  That would be perfect (perfekte) for dinner on the terrace with a small group on a summer evening.




Here’s Lisa, our friendly host.

We enjoyed the Zeltinger Hof so much a few days ago that we decided then and there to make a reservation for our last evening.  I described the experience in the blog post from June 5 (posted June 26), so I won’t duplicate all of that here.  I will say that Mary was delighted to enjoy a traditional German spätzle (pronounced SCHPETZ-la) a sort of dumpling or egg noodle, which she said was wonderful.
The wine for dinner was this Reinhold Haart Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2014.  For those who have read all our posts, you will recall that Johannes Haart at Reinhold Haart was the first Mosel producer we visited.  It was a fitting wine for the occasion.  We've developed a greater appreciation for the wines of Reinhold Haart, especially after meeting Johannes Haart at their estate.  Like all of his wines we’ve tasted, this kabinett had the same great balance between acidity and fruit I’ve discussed several times when tasting wine.  It was nicely aromatic of peach and flowers.  The palate had a delicate texture and weight with freshness and cut with flavors of stone fruit, golden delicious apple and a nice mineral quality.  Lovely.
That’s our post for today.  Thanks so much for reading us at Cépage et Cuisine.  Here’s a photo of Zeltingen at sunset from the other side of the Mosel, which captures perfectly the astonishing beauty and serenity of the place.  Our wine adventure in Germany has come to an end.  We return tomorrow to the loving arms of home.  We will post one more entry about returning to Plymouth and reflecting on this year’s adventure in wine, food, culture, people, places, geography … all of it.  So, in the meantime,

Cheers!

Mary♥Brian

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