Friday, May 30, 2014

France Adventure – Thursday, May 22, 2014 – Quiet as Church Mice, For a Little While

Hello to all our friends of wine and cuisine.  Bonjour, les amis de vin et la cuisineWelcome again to Cépage et Cuisine, Mary’s and Brian’s wine and food blog.  We’re winding things up in Burgundy.  Today is our last full day here before we begin our transition to Bordeaux.

As we planned our trip, we talked about a visit to the Abbaye Notre-Dame des Cîteaux, a Cistercian abbey in Saint-Nicholas-lès-Cîteaux, about 15 minutes east of Nuits-Saint-Georges.  The Cistercian monks at the abbey produce a wonderful mild cheese that is widely available in Burgundy.  The cheese is called simply Abbaye de Citeaux.  It is a washed rind cheese made with unpasteurized milk from cows that graze on the grounds of the abbey.  Because the cheese is a raw milk cheese that is sold soon after it is made, it is illegal to import into the U.S.  We love the cheese and it pairs beautifully with Burgundy wine, another example of “what grows together goes together.”  The photo above is not one we took.  It is clipped from the Internet, explained below. 
After the morning sojourn to the boulangerie to pick up a croissant and baguette for Mary, we goofed off around the gite and moseyed over to Saint-Nicholas-lès-Cîteaux around 12:30.  We packed a picnic of cherries, charcuterie, cheese, the baguette for Mary, and a half-bottle of wine we had left over from the previous evening.  We stopped at a park and enjoyed the peace and quiet of the countryside, then arrived at the abbey at 1:30.  

The monks are at lunch or in prayer until 2:30, so we walked around the grounds.  A sign admonishes visitors to be silent.  So we were as quiet as, ahem, church mice.  Promptly at 2:30, the chapel bell rang and we went to the entrance to learn that the 2:30 tour was full and we needed a reservation.  Alas, we couldn’t stay that quiet for another hour, so we went back toward the Côte. 

We didn't get to see the monks or the cheese operation, which is why we didn't get to take our own photos.  The abbey was beautiful and I hope we can visit there in the future with better planning.

I’m always fascinated by the Hill of Corton and all the grand cru vineyards on its slopes.  Like many vineyards in Burgundy, there is a cross in the middle of Corton-Charlemagne.  There are small service roads the vineyard workers use to get up there.  I didn’t want to drive up there during working hours, but I managed to find the right road late in the evening a couple of days ago.  Here’s the cross, one of the iconic images of Corton-Charlemagne.







Adjacent to the cross, a clever vineyard worker or visitor fashioned a miniature vineyard hut on a rock wall.

I was hoping to visit Domaine Jean Chartron, a producer of fine white Burgundy in Puligny-Montrachet, but was unable to send an email requesting an appointment.  We just drove to the domaine, hoping they would be open to walk-ins.


We were greeted by a very nice lady whose name we can’t recall.  She is British and has lived in Puligny for 25 years, so we had a nice, relaxed conversation in English.  

She tasted us through a few wines that we enjoyed very much.  She had no wines to pour from before 2012 because of the severe effect of hailstorms on the yield in Burgundy during 2011 and 2012.

Dinner that evening was at Auberge Saint Martin in Bouilland, a small country village not far from Savigny-les-Beaune.  It’s one of those villages that is reached by a winding, narrow country lane that makes you think you’re lost.  Then, there it is.  It is nestled in a narrow valley between two ridges.  The main street is about the only flat part of town.

The restaurant is run by the chef, Didier Poulet and his delightful wife, who manages the dining room.  It was a bit chilly to dine on the deck overlooking the town.



Like always, we were the first to arrive.  By the end of the evening, there were more people.



The amuse was a cool and creamy spread of a yogurt with chives and dill.





We both started with a sensational entrée course of what you see here on this little specials board.  

It’s a cream-based soup of white asparagus and a little cake of pureed vegetables, carrot, zucchini, and celery.  How he dreamed up this dish is beyond us but it was delicious.

My plat was a ballotine de poulet, chicken stuffed with mushrooms, maybe pine nuts, and carrots, along with spring vegetables and crêpes de pommes de terre, potato pancakes.

Mary’s was filet de truite meunière, crème d'aligoté, trout meuniere in a white wine cream sauce with vegetables.

Both dishes were wonderful.  I declared mine to be the best I have experienced so far on the trip.  Aside from the quality, flavor, and complexity of the dish, the creativity, inventiveness, and presentation were great.  I mean, how did he decide to pair potato pancakes with a fancy presentation of chicken?  And how much care and time goes into arranging the wild asparagus over the carrot strips and zucchini in just that way?


Dessert was presented in the same manner.  Mary had a mousse of strawberries, topped by cherries, sliced strawberries, and gooseberry. 


I asked if they could prepare a fresh fruit dessert and Didier presented this lovely plate of sliced strawberries and other fruit with a branch of delicate acacia blossoms.

Of course, we had coffee and Madame Poulet brought these little coffee cookies.


We planned the meal around a white Burgundy because we’ve had a lot of hearty, red meat dishes.  The choice was this Domaine Rapet Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes 2012.  It was refreshing with vibrant lemon, apples, clean mineral notes, a creamy, smooth texture, excellent balance and good length.  It was delicious with the food choices.

Auberge Saint Martin is a place to come again, and so we will.

After dinner, we took a few photos of Bouilland at about 9:15 in the evening.  What a pretty little town.





That’s our post for today.  Tomorrow, we move to Saint-Saturnin in the Auvergne, about halfway to our Bordeaux destination.  We plan to just mosey along the backroads, stopping to take photos and experience the French countryside off the beaten path.  We’ll post again as soon as we can.  Please check back for more entries at Cépage et Cuisine.  In the meantime,

Cheers!


Mary♥Brian

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