I like to think Mary and I have fairly broad tastes in wine, which is to say there aren't many varietals we just don't like. On the other hand, as our palates have evolved over the past 10 years, we have become Francophiles, no doubt about it. We pretty much consume wine only with meals. The more refined and elegant style of many European wines pairs better with food. Heavier wines, riper in flavor, higher in alcohol, are often more showy, often get high scores from wine critics, sometimes are more immediately pleasurable, but don't always do well with food. I like to enjoy wine with dinner, have conversation with Mary, then not feel sluggish or fatigued like I just want to go to sleep.
There will be many future posts on wines from the Old World. Today, I want to discuss one of many excellent exceptions to the impression that California wines are overblown. I have long been a fan of Au Bon Climat Winery, a producer from Santa Barbara County in southern California. The owner and head winemaker is Jim Clendenen, who has the unique title of "Mind Behind," as in...the Mind Behind Au Bon Climat. Clendenen produces wine in a refined, Burgundian style, balanced, elegant, delicious with food, refreshes the palate, not weighing it down.
Here's a link to an excellent short video about Santa Barbara County, Au Bon Climat, and Jim Clendenen.
http://www.winespectator.com/video/index/playerid/315932961/lineupid/1485805735/titleid/229510174
I had about a glass remaining of a bottle of 2006 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay. I took the opportunity to open a bottle of 2007 and compare the two, side by side...same varietal, same producer, same grape sources, same winemaker, one year difference in vintage. Here are the bottles so you can see how the labels appear in case you go shopping for it.
Notice a couple of things. One, the Mind Behind title on the lower right of the label...interesting. Second, the alcohol is labeled at 13.5%, low by California standards.
A little about Santa Barbara County and winegrowing there. It is farther south than any other premium winegrowing region in the U.S. It is closer to the equator, which means that it has more daylight hours later into the calendar year than northern latitudes, which translates to a longer growing season. Despite its southern geography it is a cool climate, at least the part of it close to the Pacific Ocean. Mary and I have vacationed there twice, both times in May or June, and we were amazed at needing a jacket or sweatshirt over near the coast. Point Conception makes a hard left turn at Santa Barbara County and turns the coast pretty much due east. It is the only place in North America that the coastal mountain range runs east-west. Cold air rushes into the western part of Santa Barbara County, especially the Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Rita Hills, creating cool, windy conditions, perfect for growing cool climate Burgundian varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The map on the left gives you a perspective on where the turn occurs at Point Conception, only 3 hours north of Los Angeles. The Google Earth closeup image on the right shows you just how the coastline turns sharply to the east. Imagine the violence of the collision of the continental plates eons ago that formed the shape of the coast. You can visualize how the cold air off the Pacific has a dramatic effect, even at a southerly latitude.
Back to Au Bon Climat. Clendenen sources fruit for this wine from several vineyard sites and creates a clean, balanced, food-friendly wine for everyday consumption. To my tasting, the difference between the two vintages was subtle. I thought the 2007 might be a little more crisp with better definition, the 2006 may have a bit more complexity, but they were both excellent. Here are my notes.
Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2006: I just love this wine, especially at this price. It is reliably good, reliably fresh and balanced. It has a medium intensity aroma profile of lemon crème, green apples, perhaps pear, and a subtle spicy quality. There is little or no obvious oak character. The fruit comes shining through. The palate is medium to full in body, has excellent acid structure, and bright flavors of lemon, tree fruit, perhaps flowers, and mineral notes. Just lovely. Beautifully balanced, moderately complex, medium in length, a rock solid value for drinking and enjoying with food. 13.5% alcohol. I paid $21 for this wine at Briarwood Wines and Spirits in Jackson.
Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2007: Tasted next to the 2006 vintage of the same wine, the differences are subtle. The same lemon and green apple aromas and flavors are there. The palate seems a bit more full-bodied, but also fresher, crisper acidity. The citrus quality on the palate was bright Meyer lemon and a delightful minerality. Both wines were well balanced. I think the 2006 may be slightly more complex. 13.5% alcohol. I paid $20 for this wine at Briarwood Wines and Spirits in Jackson.
That's it for today. Check out the blog from time to time for new entries and tell your friends. Until next time,
Cheers!
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