Aside from the pure enjoyment of the France adventure, what did we learn about wine, food, and culture? How was our understanding of wine and food enhanced? Here are a few things we learned that we think are worth sharing, plus a few practical tips.
Going there really helps. Whether “there” is Burgundy, the Loire Valley, Napa Valley, or any other wine area, seeing the terrain, walking in the vineyard, eating the food, talking to the people, and experiencing the wine within the context of the total package of the place makes understanding the wine and food so much easier. We can’t go everywhere, but visits to beautiful places that are also home to great wine is a good thing to do if you want to know more about the wine you enjoy at home.
Place matters, dirt matters, history matters. Small variations in terroir can make big differences in the wine. Look at the photo above of Corton-Charlemagne, very high class dirt, the source of some of the grandest Chardonnay in the world. The mid-slope, where I’m standing to shoot the photo, is the choicest part of the vineyard. The steeper higher slopes have lost some of their soil nutrients over time due to washing. The flatter lower slopes have accumulated clay and heavier elements over time. These things affect the grapes. In the distance you can see another hillside of the nearby village, Pernand-Vergelesses. The vineyard on that hillside is almost literally a stone’s throw from Corton-Charlemagne, but its grapes are less prized. The soil may be different in just that small distance and even if the soils are similar, the other vineyard is northeast facing, whereas Corton-Charlemagne is south facing. By standing in this spot, it makes sense to me when considering the relative value of wines from these two adjacent vineyard sites. Burgundians, dating back to the Cistercian monks and beyond, learned these distinctions long ago. Americans are working hard to understand vineyards in California and elsewhere and they have the scientific knowledge, technology, and expertise to learn quickly, but they are still behind the accumulated experience of thousands of years in old wine growing cultures.
Here’s Matthieu Baudry again at Domaine Bernard Baudry in Chinon. Notice the soil sample display in the corner of the room. Each glass case represents a different vineyard site and different soil type. Even in a photo from several feet away, you can easily see soil type differences. The cépage of the wines produced from all of these sites is the same…100% Cabernet Franc. The vinification techniques are essentially the same. I would also add that Matthieu uses only native yeasts to initiate fermentation. He does not inoculate with cultured or commercial yeasts. The wines all have varietal integrity, they are all distinctly Cabernet Franc, all delicious. Yet, they are all discernibly different from one another. Mary and I marveled at differences in character among the wines. The differences in the expressions of the wines are due to terroir. I was also amazed at how Cabernet Franc in Chinon reaches maturity at sugars that produce such low alcohol levels, generally 12.5% to 13.0%, even in a warm year such as 2009. The climate in Chinon and vines planted over limestone and in shallow soils develop grapes that retain acidity and freshness in the wine. I was a believer in the concept of terroir before, but it is even clearer now.
All of these factors converge to what I think are some logical conclusions based on our experience with wine. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can be cultivated in many places in the world, including the U.S., some of it very good or even great. For a variety of reasons, however, I have concluded the most glorious Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are produced in Burgundy.
Likewise, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc reach their greatest heights in the Loire Valley. I think this is particularly true for Cabernet Franc, which in the rest of the world is mostly a blending grape that comprises minority percentages of wines which include it. Finally, I think varietal character is clearer when alcohol levels are not too high. Phenolic maturity at low sugars enables wines that more clearly express their origins, both the type of grape and where they are grown.
Anyone reading this blog is welcome to disagree. These comments are generalizations, there are exceptions, and neither Mary nor I claim to have extensive wine expertise. We are simply passionate tasters, readers, and explorers of wine and wine culture. I have said many times that if you like a wine, it’s good wine. Trust your own palate and decide for yourself what you like.
What grows together goes together. In some ways, pairing wine with food is simplified in a place like France. Eat locally grown food with locally produced wine and it will probably be pretty darn good. Locally grown shitake mushrooms stuffed with locally produced Chèvre, grilled under an open fire in a brick oven, washed down with a Saumur rouge, is unbeatable. Mussels mariniere and a minerally Savennières is an unforgettable combination. The examples go on and on.
We were also reminded at how fresh and local food just tastes better. We noticed this even with supermarket food in France. We’ve all experienced the joy of fresh vegetables right from the garden, how vivid the flavors and textures are when they’re fresh and not packaged and shipped across the country or around the world. Another outcome of this trip is that Mary and I have renewed our resolve to shop more at farmers markets to take advantage of fresh, seasonal, locally grown food.
Elegance, finesse, and delicacy make a big difference in wine and food. Great chefs know that ingredients in the right proportions are crucial to good food. Likewise, balance among fruit, acidity, tannins, and alcohol, all elements in harmony, are crucial to great wine. As I mentioned above when talking about history, culinary and wine cultures that have long history have refined this knowledge to an art. Great American chefs can do this, too, but I think for many everyday people, living in a busy, fast food culture, we’ve either lost or never had a deep appreciation for the nuances of really expertly prepared food, paired with a well-balanced wine.
Smiling is a universal language. If you are pleasant and polite and at least make an attempt to communicate in French for basic expressions, even simple things like “bonjour” and “merci,” they appreciate it and will respond in kind. Almost everyone we met was friendly and welcoming. Here’s Madame again in Villers-la-Faye, one of our very favorite French people. She brightened our mornings and made us glad we came to her shop. Finally, here’s a shout-out to our Villers-la-Faye hosts from Grape Rentals, Franck and Laura Germain (www.graperentals.com). Franck grew up in Villers-la-Faye and together he and Laura manage a few vacation rental properties in the area. We found them by searching online, but we’ve also communicated with them by email and phone. They are gracious, kind, eager to help, nice people with a nice family, and have lovely properties to enhance a visit to Burgundy. We wrote earlier about our hosts at Le Clos des Guyons in Le Puy Notre Dame. Thank you, Brian and Sheila.
That’s our post for today, our final post about our 2011 wine and culinary adventure in France. We enjoyed our experience so much, but Dorothy was right in the Wizard of Oz, there’s no place like home. We hope you enjoyed our posts about French wine, food, and culture and found them interesting. Keep checking back at Cépage et Cuisine for more articles about wine and food. Until then,
Cheers!
Mary♥Brian
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